Building on the previous blog’s introduction to the concept of ‘Trans TV’ and the production of Euphoria’s (19-) transformation, I will analyze the Gen Z aesthetic created by Euphoria from more perspectives.

Euphoria offers an aesthetically exciting viewing experience. Each character has a unique style and as a whole forms a fashion style that belongs to Euphoria. Under the work of Doniella Davy, the show’s lead make-up artist, the teens often had coloured and bold eye shadows, glowing sequined accessorises. These designs challenge conventional makeup definitions and stereotype identities. The showrunner Sam Levinson expects make-up to play an important aesthetic role, “used in an emotionally evocative, expressive way, to help show the journey of the teens on the show.” (Ahlgrim, 2019)

According to Francis and Hoefel (2018), Gen Z is roughly those born between 1995 and 2010. From their earliest youth, Gen Z have been exposed to technology, the internet, and social networks thus being ‘true digital natives’. For Gen Z, who are exposed to a flood of digital information, are receiving messages about war, violence, shootings and sex scandals, one after the other, at a faster pace. Euphoria captures the disappointment and anxiety of Gen Z in such a context, shaping an ‘aesthetic of desperation’ on a production level.

Lead make-up artist Doniella Davy told The Hollywood Reporter, “Glitter visually mimics tears, especially in low light, and a reflective eye will always hold the attention of a viewer.” (Cosgrave,2019) When we think of Euphoria, hazy purples, rose-like reds and blue lights always flash to mind. Teenagers always seem to be wearing glittering make-up and partying with their friends, getting drunk in the colourful yet dim lights. However, behind this ‘glitter’, as Davy says, lies uncontrollable anxiety and tears of sorrow. It is in fact an expression of Gen Z’s trauma about their childhood and uncertainty about their own identity.

Another interesting phenomenon is that ever since Euphoria was debuted, it has influenced a whole new beauty trend on social media. On Tiktok in particular, a large number of users have shot Euphoria-inspired makeup videos with the hashtag ‘#euphoria’ ‘ #euphoriamakeup’. In many of the videos, the users are first in daily light, dressed normally in a room, then the light of the scene turns purple or blue as the music switches and they wear sparkling eye makeup and sharp eyeliner. On YouTube, there are also many videos featuring the Euphoria Makeup Tutorial, which teach people how to create a look with a distinctive Euphoria style.

Another noteworthy aspect of these TikTok videos is the background music. Users mostly choose the original soundtrack from Euphoria, such as “Still Don’t Know My Name” and “Formula“. It can be said that Euphoria‘s choice of soundtrack also reflects the production strategy of the new transformation of television. In Euphoria‘s world, music is not just an addition to enhance the plot, but a part of building the character’s personality. In an interview, Euphoria‘s music supervisor Jen Malone talks about how she sources music from all the common platforms, such as SoundCloud, Twitter, Instagram, and Spotify. “if it’s good for Euphoria it’ll go in the Euphoria bin”(Maicki, 2019)

As Jessica Peterson (2022) says, “The“Euphoria” soundtrack is less about pop hits and more about emotive tracks and electronic motifs that follow each character. ”

This highly electronic music better speaks to and connects with the inner world of Gen Z; expressing and stimulating a wide range of moods such as anxiety, fear, anger, lust and the desire for love. The music also helps create a unique viewing experience. When people think of the plot and scenes of Euphoria, music and lyrics that match it come to mind at the same time.

When Tiktok users present Euphoria‘s makeup, lighting, scenes and music at the same time, the viewer gets a familiar aesthetic experience and is transported into the world of Euphoria. Euphoria‘s aesthetics are innovative and ambitious, combining storytelling, fashion, music, colour and lighting as a whole.

From my point of view, the success of Euphoria reflects Goddard and Hogg’s (2020, p.262) hope for the concept of ‘Trans TV’, which is “a proposal for a ‘transing’ reading of contemporary streaming television in all dimensions that is itself in a process of ‘transing’ and acquiring ever new medial forms and representational aesthetics.”

References:

1. Ahlgrim,C.(2019) ‘29 of the best makeup looks from HBO’s gritty teen drama ‘Euphoria’’, Insider. Available at: https://www.insider.com/euphoria-hbo-best-makeup-looks-maddy-jules-rue-kat-2019-9 (Accessed on: 30 November 2022)
2. Cosgrave,B. (2019) ‘‘Euphoria’ Costume Designer Calls Show’s Street Style a “Time Capsule” of How Teens Dress Today’,The Hollywood Reporter. Available at: https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/lifestyle/style/euphoria-costume-designer-talks-shows-street-style-1221315/ (Accessed on: 30 November 2022)
3. Francis, T. and Hoefel,F. (2018) ‘‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies’, Mckinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies (Accessed on: 30 November 2022)
4. Goddard, M. and Hogg, C. (2020) ‘Introduction: Trans TV dossier, III: Trans TV re-evaluated, part 2’, Critical studies in television, 15(3), pp. 255–266. Available at: https://journals.sagepub.com/toc/csta/15/3  (Accessed on: 28 November 2022)
5. Maicki,S. (2019) ‘How Euphoria’s music supervisor Jen Malone soundtracks the show’s adolescent hedonism’, The Fader. Available at: https://www.thefader.com/2019/07/08/euphoria-music-supervisor-jen-malone-interview-hbo-zendaya (Accessed on: 30 November 2022)
6. Peterson, J.(2022) ‘A Look at the Visual and Musical Language of Euphoria’, Artlist. Available at: https://artlist.io/blog/euphoria-soundtrack-style/ (Accessed on: 30 November 2022)

By YiXi Zhao (33659283)

First written on 30/11/2022

Re-edited on 1/12/2022